[Help] Buying a 2nd car from a private seller?

[pb21]

I'm in the market for buying a 2nd hand car, current car on its last legs, and new family member due to arrive in a few months...

Have identified what we would like and there is a potential option but it's being sold from a private seller, rather than a dealer or garage.

I'm a bit skeptical about handing over a significant sum of money and having absolutely no come back or whatever.

Anyone have any advice or words of warning? Presumably the price should reflect the seller, i.e. be less than if through a garage? If so how much lower?

 

[HeaviestTed]

Id get an odb reader thing and ask to plug that in to look for engine faults - if there is an intermittent warning light coming on but is currently off then that will show up.

Sorry no other advice - I hate everything about buying and selling cars

 

[hart's shirt]

Calling @zefarelly ...

 

[pb21]

Id get an odb reader thing and ask to plug that in to look for engine faults - if there is an intermittent warning light coming on but is currently off then that will show up.

Sorry no other advice - I hate everything about buying and selling cars

That does sound like an excellent idea, thanks @HeaviestTed

 

[Icy Gull]

I have had reasonable results from buying privately but yes it is a risk.

First impressions of the seller are a starting point.
Make sure the engine is not warm, walk away if it’s not cold
Check oil level and colour. As long as it’s not a diesel, the lighter the better. Ask when the last oil and filter change was made, ask for proof. If you can see it check what the oil filter looks like
Check the MOT history
Ask for a service record or bills for parts if the seller says he does his own maintenance
Make sure you have a test drive of at least 20 mins and check the water temperature as well as the water level when the test drive is finished.
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels
Check the bodywork for bodge jobs and rust
Make sure EVERYTHING works. Air con/windows/stereo etc. Negotiating point if not
Gear changes should be smooth with no clunks
Clutch should not be biting at the top, you’ll likely need a new one if it does.
Listen out for clunks or bangs on the test drive. Wheel bearings, shock absorbers might make nasty noises If they need replacing..

Actually just go to Youtube and search for car buying advice, there are loads of things that you need to check.
Check Parkers for a price guide, in my experience they are a little low but at least you’ll have a ballpark

An NSC mechanic will be along to give you more and probably better advice.

If you want it always make an offer of at least 10% lower than the asking price, you’ll probably end up meeting in the middle

You are taking a chance though and need to be paying less than a dealer price

What car is it and where are you located, maybe a knowledgeable NSCer will come for a test drive if you buy him/her a drink if local

 

[pb21]

What car is it and where are you located, maybe a knowledgeable NSCer will come for a test drive if you buy him/her a drink if local

Thanks.

It's a 2017 (67) Kia Optima estate model, but oop north in Sheffield, so would require a lot of drinks.

Actually should have mentioned that it's a Kia and still inside the 7 year warranty period. The listing says that it has a full service history and has the remaining 12 months warranty left.

If so, would that provide enough confidence?

 

[Icy Gull]

Thanks.

It's a 2017 (67) Kia Optima estate model, but oop north in Sheffield, so would require a lot of drinks.

Actually should have mentioned that it's a Kia and still inside the 7 year warranty period. The listing says that it has a full service history and has the remaining 12 months warranty left.

If so, would that provide enough confidence?

Only a year left but a stamped up service book from a main dealer and ideally any bills for wear and tear items replaced would inspire confidence.

Oh and check tyre tread levels, tyres are expensive and pretty well every car I have bought has needed new tyres. I don’t do driving on nearly bald ones.

The MOT history will give you an inkling of how it’s been cared for too

Check the MOT history of a vehicle

Check the MOT history of a vehicle from 2005 onwards, including if it passed or failed, its mileage and why it failed, download MOT test certificate

www.gov.uk

 

[upthealbion1970]

Think RAC or the AA will inspect/report for you for a fee

 

[pb21]

The MOT history will give you an inkling of how it’s been cared for too

It's had 3 MOTs, all passes, no advisories. Averaged 7k miles per year. Next is due in October.

Might negotiate that they arrange for an MOT now before any potential sale, and only if it has full service history with 1-year warranty remaining.

 

[Live by the sea]

I'm in the market for buying a 2nd hand car, current car on its last legs, and new family member due to arrive in a few months...

Have identified what we would like and there is a potential option but it's being sold from a private seller, rather than a dealer or garage.

I'm a bit skeptical about handing over a significant sum of money and having absolutely no come back or whatever.

Anyone have any advice or words of warning? Presumably the price should reflect the seller, i.e. be less than if through a garage? If so how much lower?

Get a AA inspection before you part with any money. The price should be around 20-25% cheaper than buying through a garage .

 

[Icy Gull]

It's had 3 MOTs, all passes, no advisories. Averaged 7k miles per year. Next is due in October.

Might negotiate that they arrange for an MOT now before any potential sale, and only if it has full service history with 1-year warranty remaining.

Sounds good, yes get an MOT before purchase

Do you live up that way?

 

[Algernon]

Google their mobile number and see how many cars they're "privately" selling.
Get someone else to call them "about the car they're selling"
If they answer with "which car" then again you'll know they're not a genuine private seller.
I wouldn't buy a car from Yorkshire, especially Sheffield as it's full of wrong uns selling write offs but not disclosing such.
Check on Autotrader website if it's written off and compare with what the seller's telling you. There's a way of doing this. I'll do it for you if you PM me a link to the advert. I'm not in the market for buying a car at the moment ago don't want to buy it for myself.
Check "honest John" for reviews of your specific car.
And all the other things suggested above in this thread.

Oh, and ask them the lowest they'll take. Whatever they say it's easy money off just for asking one question. Then negotiate down from there.

 

[Elbow750]

Check when the cam belt and water pump are due. That can easily be £450 +.
Check brakes. Discs and pads. Again could be £350 + if needed all round. Find out how much a new clutch is (fitted,of course) for that car.

Sheffield is a long way to go. Try and find something within 40 miles so you can take a mate. Cost of petrol, a night away etc all adds up.

 

[Icy Gull]

Check when the cam belt and water pump are due. That can easily be £450 +.
Check brakes. Discs and pads. Again could be £350 + if needed all round. Find out how much a new clutch is (fitted,of course) for that car.

Sheffield is a long way to go. Try and find something within 40 miles so you can take a mate. Cost of petrol, a night away etc all adds up.

Cam belt should be done on time after 5 years. Again I’d walk away if it hasn’t been done

 

[sparkie]

Courageous.

 

[zefarelly]

I think everythings been said.

I'd only add . . . . Consider location . . . . I was looking at an Alfar recently . . .Bradford, everyone said the same thing, forget it. . . . 4 owners in under 2 years, like BMW/Merc and anything with any for of performance . . . They attract the lads, who can'r really afford them and cane the shit out of them. Then flog them quick when they need a serivec or tyres..

Not an issue with sensible cars, but servicing and history, as well as accident damage and general appearance say all you need to know.

If its a private ad and the seller is genuine, TBH, I'd trust them over an average dealer . . . They're only in it for one thing, and it's pretty much guaranteed they'll have done the absolute minimum prep bar making it look good.

 

[pb21]

Just thought I would share a quick update, having bought the car!

Went to have a look at the car (I live very close to Sheffield to basically local). The car was in very good condition, when sitting inside couldn't tell it was 6 years old. The seller was clearly genuine and had looked after it well since he had it (1 previous owner). On the test drive he was showing me how everything worked etc. he was sort of proud of it, ideally he wouldn't be selling. Saw all the documentation kept in a wallet, including full service history.

Negotiated a fair price (I think) and he saw it through a MOT, which was due in October, which passed.

Was originally thinking it would/could be risky buying from a private seller, but as it turned out I think actually was beneficial as I saw the current owner (and his house/family) and got a good idea of how the car has been used and looked after.

 

[Live by the sea]

That all sounds good - well done

 

[The Grockle]

If you know a mechanic or someone with decent advise taking them with you, buy then lunch give them £50 for their troubles, couls save you a lot more in the long run.

I thought I had decent knowledge of cars, viewed what looked like an immaculate used car. My friend came for a second viewing and found it needed alot of bushes replacing, steering rack and shock absorbers were shot. Would have cost a lot to put right.

 

[JamieR]

Where was the car advertised? Seems eBay, Facebook and the like is getting worse for scam ads and general chancers.