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[Help] Plumbers! Help out a DIY doofus.



jimhigham

Je Suis Rhino
Apr 25, 2009
7,739
Woking
Evening all. I’ve been up since four for work and a DIY task has emerged. Being generally crap at such things, I’ve learned over a lifetime of shift work never to take these things on when I’m shagged out so I’m just doing my research. Already I’m confused and yet this is probably the simplest job in the world for many of you. So I’d be grateful if you could tell me what’s what.

Our push down bathroom sink plug has clicked its last clack. I had a quick look on YouTube and found what seemed to be a very simple replacement process involving a £3.50 part, which is the brass piece shown. Simple, huh?

E959EA02-D0FC-49E2-973A-8FC82DFF7636.jpeg

Except my plug doesn’t seem to have such a straightforward arrangement. Here it is...

EB464502-24AD-4577-AC07-B7F50ED98F1D.jpeg

Simply put, how do I get it out and what am I replacing it with?

Advice appreciated, which will be stored away for a day off when I’m nicely rested. Thanks all.
 




Mr Bridger

Sound of the suburbs
Feb 25, 2013
4,444
Earth
You can usually clean them up with a bit of WD40 , wire wool and then grease.
Usually caused by tooth paste “setting”

If not replace the whole waste, then grease regularly or alternatively get a
Swivel waste to stop this happening.

BEFF79D1-B918-4218-ADE0-1D6F8A5CCCEB.png
 


PILTDOWN MAN

Well-known member
NSC Patron
Sep 15, 2004
18,705
Hurst Green
TBH it looks a bit past it. I'd replace the whole lot cost 20 to 30 quid
 


jimhigham

Je Suis Rhino
Apr 25, 2009
7,739
Woking
You can usually clean them up with a bit of WD40 , wire wool and then grease.
Usually caused by tooth paste “setting”

If not replace the whole waste, then grease regularly.

Thanks Mr Bridger!

The click clack mechanism is properly knackered, as the section that attaches to the underside of the cap (that would sit inside the wider collar) has come out and has a small section broken off.
 






Mr Bridger

Sound of the suburbs
Feb 25, 2013
4,444
Earth
Thanks Mr Bridger!

The click clack mechanism is properly knackered, as the section that attaches to the underside of the cap (that would sit inside the wider collar) has come out and has a small section broken off.

Replace the whole waste then, tenner from screwfix.
 








BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,561
Newhaven
You can usually clean them up with a bit of WD40 , wire wool and then grease.
Usually caused by tooth paste “setting”

If not replace the whole waste, then grease regularly or alternatively get a
Swivel waste to stop this happening.

I would like to buy a pint for the person that invented the clicker waste, I regularly change these :)
 


BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,561
Newhaven
Suspect you’re right. Definitely leaving that for a day off. Shift work and plumbing don’t sit well with me. :yawn:

You may also need a new 1 1/4 waste trap, the threaded tail on these waste fittings do vary in length, you my find when you fit the new waste fitting into your basin there could be a gap of 10-20mm between the bottom of the thread and top of the waste trap.
An 1 1/4 adjustable p trap will be useful if there is a gap.

Is your basin on a pedestal or do you have a cupboard under the basin?
 


Arkwright

Arkwright
Oct 26, 2010
2,792
Caterham, Surrey
If you are changing the whole waste on the basin make sure you get the right click clack waste.
If you have an overflow on the basin (a hole at the top of the basin to let out excess water) you need a slotted waste if no overflow a unslotted waste, they cost between £10 and £15.
You should be able to screw the waste into the trap as you are replacing like for like just make sure you put the washers in the right place under the waste.
Some plumbers will use plumbers mate (putty) but it's not necessary if you get a secure seal.
Good luck.........
 




Rowdey

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2003
2,537
Herne Hill
You may also need a new 1 1/4 waste trap, the threaded tail on these waste fittings do vary in length, you my find when you fit the new waste fitting into your basin there could be a gap of 10-20mm between the bottom of the thread and top of the waste trap.
An 1 1/4 adjustable p trap will be useful if there is a gap.

Is your basin on a pedestal or do you have a cupboard under the basin?


This man knows..

You can also buy small extensions from screwfix to make the difference - https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-s12a-f-1-bsp-eu-uk-coupler-white-32mm-x-32mm/4483v
 


jimhigham

Je Suis Rhino
Apr 25, 2009
7,739
Woking
Hmm!

Thanks for al the suggestions. Our sink unit is on a pedestal, which means getting at the guts beneath the sink becomes a bit more... well, not very me anyway.

I might just say nuts to it, support a small local business and get a professional in. Life’s too bloody short.

:)
 


BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,561
Newhaven
If you are changing the whole waste on the basin make sure you get the right click clack waste.
If you have an overflow on the basin (a hole at the top of the basin to let out excess water) you need a slotted waste if no overflow a unslotted waste, they cost between £10 and £15.
You should be able to screw the waste into the trap as you are replacing like for like just make sure you put the washers in the right place under the waste.
Some plumbers will use plumbers mate (putty) but it's not necessary if you get a secure seal.
Good luck.........

Good advice, I forgot to mention slotted and unslotted wastes.
I always use plumbers mait and a poly washer, I don’t always trust some of the washers that come with wastes.
 




BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,561
Newhaven
Hmm!

Thanks for al the suggestions. Our sink unit is on a pedestal, which means getting at the guts beneath the sink becomes a bit more... well, not very me anyway.

I might just say nuts to it, support a small local business and get a professional in. Life’s too bloody short.

:)

It can be a difficult job ( more than 5 minutes :) ) if you can’t manoeuvre the pedestal slightly to one side.
 














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