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Plumbing / Washing Machine Tap Replacement Advice



marlowe

Well-known member
Dec 13, 2015
3,936
Just wanted some advice on replacing my washing machine tap from any NSC plumbers.
The tap seems a bit stiff so have to use pliers as plastic lever mangled. Even with pliers it doesn't turn as freely or as fully as it should and also being careful not to force it. I've decided it might be wise to replace the whole tap and was thinking about doing myself if not too difficult. However it looks to me that it is fitted with a brass push fitting. I have attached a photo. My question is how do I remove a push fitted tap if that's what it is. Does it require cutting off with pipe cutter? I don't want to make pipe too short as I want it to be well clear of the floor for easy access/future maintenance. What do you recommend? Is it an easy job for a seasoned diyer with limited but some plumbing experience? I would obviously want to replace like for like and want to avoid plastic push fit. (EDIT: the photo is sideways. The pipe is actually vertical))
20170807_173923.jpg
 




BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,538
Newhaven
Just wanted some advice on replacing my washing machine tap from any NSC plumbers.
The tap seems a bit stiff so have to use pliers as plastic lever mangled. Even with pliers it doesn't turn as freely or as fully as it should and also being careful not to force it. I've decided it might be wise to replace the whole tap and was thinking about doing myself if not too difficult. However it looks to me that it is fitted with a brass push fitting. I have attached a photo. My question is how do I remove a push fitted tap if that's what it is. Does it require cutting off with pipe cutter? I don't want to make pipe too short as I want it to be well clear of the floor for easy access/future maintenance. What do you recommend? Is it an easy job for a seasoned diyer with limited but some plumbing experience? I would obviously want to replace like for like and want to avoid plastic push fit. (EDIT: the photo is sideways. The pipe is actually vertical))
View attachment 87961

It looks to me the type of push fit valve is not the type that can be undone. From the photo it looks as though there is enough pipe to fit a new compression type washing machine valve.
 






marlowe

Well-known member
Dec 13, 2015
3,936
Yes



Turn the water off first tho :ohmy:

I am aware of that bit. Anything else I need to know. Is it best to go with brass. The one in the link is not brass. I also seem to remember I wire wool the pipe where the connection will be. Is that correct?
 




SIMMO SAYS

Well-known member
Jul 31, 2012
11,715
Incommunicado
I am aware of that bit. Anything else I need to know. Is it best to go with brass. The one in the link is not brass. I also seem to remember I wire wool the pipe where the connection will be. Is that correct?

Clean the cut end up yes.
As for going with brasS I really couldn't comment :moo:





You may have to look that up :p
 


BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,538
Newhaven
So do I just cut it off with a pipe cutter and replace it with one of these. Also a metal push fit.
http://www.plumbers-mate-sales.co.u...shing-machine-tap-valve---07001921-2955-p.asp

I only use compression type washing machine valves, but if you are using the push fit type-
Cut the pipe under the old valve, make sure you use a pipe cutter rather than a hacksaw.
Clean the pipe with wire wool or fine sandpaper.
Measure the depth inside the new valve where the pipe will go in, make a mark on the pipe of this measurement, then push valve on until the front edge reaches the mark.

Obviously turn off the water first as Simmo Says has suggested.
 










marlowe

Well-known member
Dec 13, 2015
3,936
I only use compression type washing machine valves, but if you are using the push fit type-
Cut the pipe under the old valve, make sure you use a pipe cutter rather than a hacksaw.
Clean the pipe with wire wool or fine sandpaper.
Measure the depth inside the new valve where the pipe will go in, make a mark on the pipe of this measurement, then push valve on until the front edge reaches the mark.
I'm now having second thoughts after what you said and am thinking about going with a compression joint. Do you think that is better for a washing machine tap?
Also is jointing compound better than ptfe tape?
Anything else I should be aware of apart from not overtightening?
 




BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,538
Newhaven
I'm now having second thoughts after what you said and am thinking about going with a compression joint. Do you think that is better for a washing machine tap?
Also is jointing compound better than ptfe tape?
Anything else I should be aware of apart from not overtightening?

Jointing compound is better, but If you didn't want to spend money on a tub of it for just one fitting use PTFE.
Only use one wrap on the olive ( compression ring ) do not cover the thread in tape.
Yes do not over tighten the valve.

I would also buy a compression cap and remove the unused hot washing machine valve.
 


erkan

Well-known member
Dec 9, 2004
896
Eastbourne
Had a plumber in this afternoon to replace a washer in the cold water tank. Now we have cold water from sinks and basins but not baths or to refill toilets. Anyone know why this could be? Tank in loft is behaving normally.
 


marlowe

Well-known member
Dec 13, 2015
3,936
Jointing compound is better, but If you didn't want to spend money on a tub of it for just one fitting use PTFE.
Only use one wrap on the olive ( compression ring ) do not cover the thread in tape.
Yes do not over tighten the valve.

I would also buy a compression cap and remove the unused hot washing machine valve.

Thanks.
I don't mind spending the extra for jointing compound as it's only £4.49 in Screwfix so still cheaper than hiring a plumber
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-hawk-white-jointing-compound-400g/69694

Why would you remove the hot water valve?
Is compression joint better than push fit for this situation?
 




SIMMO SAYS

Well-known member
Jul 31, 2012
11,715
Incommunicado
Jointing compound is better, but If you didn't want to spend money on a tub of it for just one fitting use PTFE.
Only use one wrap on the olive ( compression ring ) do not cover the thread in tape.
Yes do not over tighten the valve.

I would also buy a compression cap and remove the unused hot washing machine valve.

You're going to regret getting involved in this thread :rolleyes:
 


Mr Bridger

Sound of the suburbs
Feb 25, 2013
4,441
Earth
Had a plumber in this afternoon to replace a washer in the cold water tank. Now we have cold water from sinks and basins but not baths or to refill toilets. Anyone know why this could be? Tank in loft is behaving normally.

Air lock
 


BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,538
Newhaven
Why would you remove the hot water valve?
Is compression joint better than push fit for this situation?

In your photo only one valve is connected to a washing machine hose, the other valve ( hot ) will never be used ( unless you buy a very old second hand washing machine) All machines are now cold fill only.
I would cap or remove the valve as it could leak or let water through, I've seen it happen.

Not sure which is better, I have used compression washing machine valves since I started plumbing, push fit wasn't available then.
Compression are slightly cheaper.
 






BN9 BHA

DOCKERS
NSC Patron
Jul 14, 2013
21,538
Newhaven
Had a plumber in this afternoon to replace a washer in the cold water tank. Now we have cold water from sinks and basins but not baths or to refill toilets. Anyone know why this could be? Tank in loft is behaving normally.


Yes air lock if the plumber drained down the cold water tank.
He should have checked all the taps were running before disappearing with your money.
 




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