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Thanks for the interesting insights. I was there during the Surahto era, as a fairly vacuous 20 year old, island hopping on the old Pelni lines.

I actually arrived on New Year's Day 1997, funnily enough. I can only imagine the changes, I think they were just beginning to build an international airport in Lombok which must have been a stark transformation.

Though I haven't been for a long time, I was struck by the discrepancy between local and international news coverage in Indonesia, which is a type of oppression. You couldn't discuss politics with local people, and there was a quasi military police presence in the smallest of places.