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O/T Seville



Goldstone1976

We Got Calde in!!
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Apr 30, 2013
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Taking gf, younger daughter (19) and her bf for 4 days to Seville tomorrow. Never been. Any suggestions for bars/restaurants (traditional/good) & things to do pls? We're staying right in the centre. No car.

Many thanks in advance...
 




clapham_gull

Legacy Fan
Aug 20, 2003
25,175
been there a number of time and know the city well. Give us a few minutes and get the address of the flamenco place below. But some tips.

1) Don't eat in a sit down restaurant. Trawl the tapas. Have a bite at the bar with drinks.
2) You don't need to venture out the centre. That's what I love about Seville. You can eat and drink next to the Cathedral alongside locals not worrying you are being ripped off like Paris, Venice or London.
3) Don't take in an expensive flamenco show. There is a secret back of restaurant place in the centre where all the stars come on late and perform for free. Its like a student union (I think an old coal bunker) where all the students go. Ramshackle but a well stocked cheap bar and brilliant.
4) It's hot. Expect to eat later. Stock up at lunchtime. Check out the bars that spray you with a mist of water as you eat. You will be grateful.
5) It's surprisingly small.
6) Good for shopping. I always come back with loads of shoes and trainers that are much cheaper. Got odd size feet and Camper always fit :)
 


clapham_gull

Legacy Fan
Aug 20, 2003
25,175
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attra...ia-Seville_Province_of_Seville_Andalucia.html

Don't miss this. Starts late but that's early evening in Seville. Get there a bit early it gets packed but will only cost you a few nice cold Cerveza.

As for eating pretty much anyway. Check out the road right opposite the Geraldo tower. Bars on the left and right.

There is an old scruffy bar on the right on a corner. You won't miss it. Full of locals, spit and saw dust but my first drink in Seville. Watch them mark your slate as a chalk line on the bar.

Have a drink on me - then quickly off to somewhere cleaner to eat :)

If you want a beach holiday (no car) you can get a local coach all the way down to Conil my favourite beach resort in Spain. Scruffy place for the locals but one of the best beaches in Europe that runs for miles. Been there 3 times. Usually via Seville.
 
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Notters

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2003
24,865
Guiseley
I would very much disagree with Clapham's point 5. It's surprisingly big. Imagine the lanes but a thousand times as big. Expect to get lost but enjoy it.try a dozen tapas bars a night. My favourite was el riconcillo which was also on rick stein's spain.
 




clapham_gull

Legacy Fan
Aug 20, 2003
25,175
I would very much disagree with Clapham's point 5. It's surprisingly big. Imagine the lanes but a thousand times as big. Expect to get lost but enjoy it.try a dozen tapas bars a night. My favourite was el riconcillo which was also on rick stein's spain.

I live in London and it ain't Barcelona :) The centre isn't huge. You can walk pretty much everywhere.

Yes that restaurant is great.
 


Notters

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2003
24,865
Guiseley
Agree re la carboneria - great place. Conil is great too but quite some drive away. I did it on a separate trip.

Having been to seville, cadiz, jerez, cordoba and granada (twice), I would chose cordoba and granada every time but seville is still great.
 


Bakero

Languidly clinical
Oct 9, 2010
13,679
Almería
I've lived there for a few years now. Will write up a few tips when I have a minute tomorrow.
 




clapham_gull

Legacy Fan
Aug 20, 2003
25,175
Agree re la carboneria - great place. Conil is great too but quite some drive away. I did it on a separate trip.

Having been to seville, cadiz, jerez, cordoba and granada (twice), I would chose cordoba and granada every time but seville is still great.

Oddly (I know) I prefer Seville. Like Jerez too and have the coach down to Conil it's easy.

Love to mix it up a bit these days. Just got back from Sardinia but came back via Venice.

Always wanted to go to Granada but there aren't many direct flights. Random conversation on the beach in Majorca with a barman who suggested I fly from there because it's cheap.

So few months later spent a few days in Palma (great city) in Majorca then flew up to Granada and spent a couple of days there.

Granada christ don't bother buying food. Those aren't free tapas they serve with the booze, they are meals.

Went for a post meal drink in a bar and a whole complementary tortilla came out. Definitely not as outwardly friendly in Granada. Aren't they considered the Spanish Parisians :)

Oh and I forgot about Cádiz..

Everyone should get themselves to Conil. First time I visited the food had massively suffered due it appeared to a smattering of English tourists but mostly German. Went a few years ago twice and it's back to being a mostly Spanish resort and the food has improved.

Has to be said the best food in Spain is generally found inland in my opinion. Oddly in Majorca they have these weird Asian fusion thing going on that is actually quite tasty.

The other thing that has happened in Spain over the last few years is the Gin craze. They have mad for it, even seeping into tapas bars in England.

They serve all these mostly English "craft gins" you've never heard of and there is even a menu for the tonic. In Granada they even match nibbles with it.

Its a killer. They serve it 50/50.
 


Goldstone1976

We Got Calde in!!
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Apr 30, 2013
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Thank you all - much appreciated! Special thanks to [MENTION=865]clapham_gull[/MENTION] for the masses of effort!
[MENTION=17447]Bakero[/MENTION] - I'll look for your post tomorrow. Happy to buy you a beer or three if you're there over the weekend...
 


Napier's Knee

New member
Mar 23, 2014
1,099
West Sussex
Definitely go on a tour of the bullfighting stadium. I'd have that as a must do regardless of attitudes to bullfighting. Triana, the old working class district across the river is interesting. And of course there is an Albion link - Gus is at Real Betis. Giralda as early as you can, to see the mists clearing. Seville is incredibly atmospheric - wonderful city
 




KingKev

Well-known member
Jun 16, 2011
867
Hove (actually)
Probably my favourite city in the world. I agree with others - just wander about, sit by the river and have a leisurely drink and then do the paseo in the evening, moving from bar to bar and grazing on tapas. Heaven.
Take a wander around Triana, early morning cortado, juice and tostada at a pavement cafe, do the bull ring tour, go up the Giralda, wander around the market but most of all just soak it up; no need to rush about with a tick list of stuff to do - you'll miss out on the joy of the place.
I'm jealous. Have fun - and when you love it plan a return during Easter (semana santa) or the feria - that's special..
If you go for longer then a few days in Conil or Cadiz would be fab - and maybe stop in at Jerez for a sherry tasting tour on the way.
 




Bakero

Languidly clinical
Oct 9, 2010
13,679
Almería
As others have mentioned, Rinconcillo is worth a visit. It's the oldest bar in Seville and the food's pretty good. Bodega Santa Cruz is good if you want a traditional tapas bar near the Cathedral. The food is not the best but the atmosphere is great. Be wary of most places that are very near the Cathedral; a lot of them are over-priced and serve poor quality food.

Another decent traditional place is Bodega Romero, or it's sister branch, Bodeguita Romero. Those in the know have a Montadito de Pringa here (a montadito is a little sandwich, Pringa is made from pork, chorizo and morcilla.) Bodega Dos de Mayo on Plaza de la Gavidia is another good option.

For quality modern tapas check out La Brunilda, Mechela, La Azotea, Oveja Negra, Perro Viejo or Antojo. These are all closer to restaurants than traditional tapas bars and serve interesting, delicious tapas as well as big plates. La Azotea and Brunilda don't take bookings so you usually have to grab a drink and wait for a table.

In Seville people eat late- don't try to go for lunch before 1.30 or dinner before 8.30. Peak times will be 2-3 for lunch and 9-10.30 for dinner. It's also worth noting that it's quite hard to eat outside of these times. If you find yourself hungry at about 5pm options are very limited. A fantastic exception to this is Bar Eslava which serves some of the best tapas in the city and is open all day. It's incredibly busy at peak times but you can usually grab a table outside of these periods.

For drinks you are spoilt for choice in terms of the number of bars. There's at least one on every street. Beer is usually Cruz Campo which tastes of very little but is cold and refreshing on a hot day. Most people drink beer in small glasses known as Cañas. Standard price is 1.20 for a caña. If you want a bigger beer ask for a cerveza grande which will set you back about 2.40. You'll only find pints in very touristy places or Irish bars. Aside from beer, wine, sherry and gin and tonics are popular. Be warned a they free pour the gin and a 5 euro G&T is very strong! The roof top bar of El Corte Ingles on Plaza del Duque is a good spot for a more-expensive-than-average sunset G&T. Also, Sangria isn't common in Seville but if you want something similar order a tinto de verano (summer wine).

Make sure you go for at least one beer on Plaza Salvador. It's always packed with locals and the atmosphere is great. If you get bored of the ubiquitous Cruz Campo there's a burgeoning craft beer scene - notable bars include Maquila and La Jeronima (if you want other beer recommendations let me know!).

In terms of things to do aside from the obvious (cathedral, Alcazar, Las Setas, Plaza Espana), I'd recommend a trip to Italica where there are some impressive Roman Ruins which are free to enter with an EU driving license or passport. To get there take a bus to Santiciponce from Plaza de Armas bus station. The bus takes about 30 minutes and leaves regularly. You can do the trip in the morning and be back in Seville for lunch. Another good day trip is to one of the white villages (pueblos blancos). Carmona is especially nice and is a great place for a tapas crawl (http://www.rutadelaplata.com/es/5490).

I'm back in the UK at the moment so can't take you up on your offer of a beer but let me know if you have anymore questions. Enjoy!
 




MattBackHome

Well-known member
Jul 7, 2003
11,689
I agree with everything [MENTION=17447]Bakero[/MENTION] says.

Bodega Santa Cruz is great. Stick to the cañas. Any of the rooftop places around the Giralda are great for views but expensive for drinks.

There's a really great Peruvian/Japanese place at the top end of the Alameda which does fantastic ceviche and pisco sours. Can't remember what it's called though.

Plus the place is full of people from Brighton. If you do head out to Plaza Salvador it's like a Cardinal Newman reunion (alongside all the wasted American students).

I love Seville.
 


Bakero

Languidly clinical
Oct 9, 2010
13,679
Almería
I agree with everything [MENTION=17447]Bakero[/MENTION] says.

Bodega Santa Cruz is great. Stick to the cañas. Any of the rooftop places around the Giralda are great for views but expensive for drinks.

There's a really great Peruvian/Japanese place at the top end of the Alameda which does fantastic ceviche and pisco sours. Can't remember what it's called though.

Plus the place is full of people from Brighton. If you do head out to Plaza Salvador it's like a Cardinal Newman reunion (alongside all the wasted American students).

I love Seville.

The Peruvian-Japanese near Alameda is called Nikkei (calle Caltrava). The solomillo there is amazing! Nazca is another lovely Peruvian-japanese restaurant (calle Baños).
 


Bakero

Languidly clinical
Oct 9, 2010
13,679
Almería
One more thing, if you're peckish on Plaza Salvador grab a cone of fried fish (the fish place also has cheaper beer than the bars and far cleaner toilets).
 
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Wardy's twin

Well-known member
Oct 21, 2014
8,402
I agree with everything [MENTION=17447]Bakero[/MENTION] says.

Bodega Santa Cruz is great. Stick to the cañas. Any of the rooftop places around the Giralda are great for views but expensive for drinks.

There's a really great Peruvian/Japanese place at the top end of the Alameda which does fantastic ceviche and pisco sours. Can't remember what it's called though.

Plus the place is full of people from Brighton. If you do head out to Plaza Salvador it's like a Cardinal Newman reunion (alongside all the wasted American students).

I love Seville.

Yes Seville is a top place to go (i too went to cardinal newman) and would go back again. I like the bit between cathedral and the university which is the old jewish quarter. more 'lane' than the lanes if that makes sense.
 




Simgull

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2013
1,637
Hove
Brilliantly timed thread, we are planning a trip for October half term. I've been before and also love Granada and Córdoba.

Love all the food/drink suggestions. One other possibility is to drive to the Coto Donana - one of the best wetlands in Europe for birds - think Pagham Harbour on a vast scale.

We are going as a family this time - Any ideas for things a 12 year old boy would enjoy? (Other than looking for Los Pokemones)
 


Goldstone1976

We Got Calde in!!
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Apr 30, 2013
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Herts
We're sat in Bar Eslava, having some beer/wine and early tapas. Brilliant.

Thank you again to all who've helped out. This time, special thanks to [MENTION=17447]Bakero[/MENTION] !!
 



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